PDA

View Full Version : spray can paint on factory paint?



moku
09-09-2012, 06:55 PM
does anyone know if rustoleum enamel spray can paint is compatible with factory paint?

i won't be sanding the factory paint to wood but want it to serve as a primer for the rustoleum. i just don't want it to bubble up and stuff.

i'm guessing it's an old '87 model 6 (got it from a bro here as a project). original paint is black, and i don't know what kind of paint the japanese chushin gakki factory used back then. i'm painting it a "hammered white" color i saw at walmart.... it's about the only color i can live with (other than white) as rustoleum don't have too many choices. i might settle for plain white if the hammered white turns out like s**t.

what do you guys think?

btw, here are before/after headstock photos. had to put binding around the headstock... it's not pretty but i'm satisfied provided it's my first time:

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/mokushozen/Charvels/DSCN0042.jpg
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/mokushozen/Charvels/DSCN0040.jpg
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/mokushozen/Charvels/DSCN0036.jpg

after:
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/mokushozen/Charvels/DSCF0528.jpg
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/mokushozen/Charvels/DSCF0529.jpg
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/mokushozen/Charvels/DSCF0530.jpg


still have to redrill the filled in toggle holes before i paint.

anyway, suggestions much appreciate it.

moku
09-09-2012, 07:08 PM
i have to thank sully for sending me detailed instructions :bow: would not have had the guts to do the binding if it wasn't for him.

silar
09-09-2012, 07:18 PM
I'd assume they used Polyurethane, but If I were you, I'd do the painting before I applied the binding then clear over binding and paint, and I would have used some antique white or cream binding to match the neck binding. It would be good to see If anyone knows exactly whether they used Lacquer or Poly, but I'd guess poly...

sully
09-09-2012, 07:35 PM
1. Don't use enamel. Use lacquer if you have to go with rattle cans
2. Get the gaps filled before you do any paint work - you can use medium viscosity CA glue, then sand it all flat before you touch up the paint.
3. Silar, paint is done last; binding is part of the construction phase.

Good job, man; I told ya that it's not too scary.

Sully

silar
09-09-2012, 07:38 PM
1. Don't use enamel. Use lacquer if you have to go with rattle cans
2. Get the gaps filled before you do any paint work - you can use medium viscosity CA glue, then sand it all flat before you touch up the paint.
3. Silar, paint is done last; binding is part of the construction phase.

Good job, man; I told ya that it's not too scary.

Sully

Ahh.. I've never done binding before.. Do you just tape the binding when spraying paint?

sully
09-09-2012, 07:44 PM
Yep!

LaoWai
09-09-2012, 08:23 PM
My problem with spray can paint, is that it never really hardens .. or takes an extremely long time to cure. Same with Deft clear Lacquer . Be patient

DonP
09-09-2012, 10:00 PM
Avoid enamels is what I learned.

I might want to do this to add a graphic to an existing finish that is in good shape, but is just "boring".

moku
09-09-2012, 10:27 PM
ok. lacquer. so car touch-up paint cans. so sully do i mix the medium viscosity CA glue with white paint? i threw away the binding shavings already. can i mix wht acrylic paint with the glue? also, can i just use super glue?

i was going to paint the headstock also white....

ginsambo
09-10-2012, 02:03 AM
I'm no expert with no real experience of guitars, but I thought the general rule was no acrylic over polyurethane. Vice versa is ok, but acrylic over poly and it can shrink and loose adhesion and stuff.

Over here it hard to find laquer that isn't acrylic, maybe the EU rules are stricter or something about thinners.

You can either get furniture laquer which is poly or have some 2k pre catalyzed stuff mixed in a can by a specialist paint shop, which obviously has a very short self life.

Adding more poly laquer to the poly finish - usually this is done within a certain timeframe, after the flash time has passed and within 24hrs, so that the layers chemically bond with each other, you have exceeded your time limit by about twenty five years...:lol:...HOWEVER if you thoroughly decrease it (Using an industrial degreaser) sand it back like you are wet sanding with 1500 grit or something it will stick.

Sully has some good advice about the glue, its cyanoacrylate....em which I guess is basically acrylic and would fill the gaps nice in the acrylic layer.

The best paint/Laquer in my experience for a bodge it job is what they use for commercial blowovers. It's a 2k acrylic paint which dries to gloss, without the need for a laquer coat, although you probably could laquer it and it sticks like shit to a blanket. Ford Gentian Blue, Radiant Red, Diamond White etc...comes in all the colours you see vans in. :lol:

Most importantly I would get some pro degreaser or degreaser wipes - is this is the only prep you do, it's the most important.

So glue + Acrylic = OK, but not Over Poly, in gaps or chips in the poly is good, but not smothered over it. If you are painting it white, why not sand the poly off completely and use some bondo or stopper in the gaps between the binding, as this is basically just more acrylic in large lumps? Traditional wood filler is oil based so don't use that.

I would listen to Sully, he's the man in the know, this is just my two cents/pence worth.

sully
09-10-2012, 08:20 AM
ok. lacquer. so car touch-up paint cans. so sully do i mix the medium viscosity CA glue with white paint? i threw away the binding shavings already. can i mix wht acrylic paint with the glue? also, can i just use super glue?

i was going to paint the headstock also white....

No need to mix it with anything; just drop the CA glue into the holes and build them back up so that they're higher than the face of the headstock, level it all, then shoot your primer and color. Auto touch up cans (Duplicolor) will be fine. If you want to shoot catalyzed urethane from a can, there's a company called Spray Max that has a 2k urethane in a spray can (google it, I've only seen it online). I've tested it out and it works nicely. You can spray it and wetsand/buff the next day. Can't do that with lacquer; you'll need to give it at least a month to cure.

Sully

moku
09-11-2012, 02:02 AM
thanks, gin and sully! i'll do some research base on what you guys have suggested. :bow:

sixx_ gunner
09-11-2012, 06:15 AM
Does anyone have experience with House of Kolor colors in a spray can?
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q432/sixxgunnerdk2/413pIjk1Z4L__SL500_AA300_.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/12oz-Spray-Can-House-Shimrin/dp/B0082LFZUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1347330358&sr=8-2&keywords=House+of+Kolor+gamma+gold
I have used their products for cars and motorcycle tanks a few years ago, but this is new to me. This seems like a great way to make use of thier amazing colors.
Would I need to use a white primer as I think they did under the JEM777DY's to make that color pop? Looking to do this finish on a DK2M body:
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q432/sixxgunnerdk2/Jackson-Adrian-Smith-GM-Guitar-2T.jpg

FYI:
Amazon also carries that Spray Max 2k clearcoat:
http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1347361567&sr=8-2&keywords=Spray+Max

sully
09-11-2012, 09:11 AM
Haven't tried the HOK in aerosol, but would assume that the pic you posted it candy, so to get that, you'd need to do your silver basecoat, shoot the candy, then clear it.

sixx_ gunner
09-11-2012, 09:26 AM
Thanks Sully!
You da Man!

moku
09-11-2012, 06:33 PM
it seems that spray max only has clearcoats or primers? i see a video of someone using red color but can't seem to find anyone selling 2k urethane in colors? :think:
i seem to be looking at the wrong places online?

sully
09-11-2012, 09:17 PM
The color isn't as important. You can get yourself some Duplicolor rattle cans (acrylic lacquer) and shoot the spray max over it the next day.
Sully

moku
09-12-2012, 07:51 PM
i see. thanks!