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TOM Setup: Am I on the Right Track?

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  • TOM Setup: Am I on the Right Track?

    So, I have a PRS Singlecut SE that I've swapped the dreaded preinonated stoptail on for a Gotoh 510UB. Nice bridge, but I played around with it and I couldn't get it to intonate properly (even wore some of the chrome/nickel plating off the treble side's stud, but this is hidden and cometic only so I'm not worried for the time being). So, since this is my first TOM(ish) bridge, let me ask this:

    Initial starting point should be with all saddles at the middle of the bridge, with the bridge itself (measured at those saddles) half the distance of the scale from the 12th fret? And should I need to flip any saddles to get the correct range?

    Thanks for the help. And if anyone knows where to get individual Gotoh parts (for when I do replace those studs), let me know. ;p
    Last edited by SausageofPower; 02-16-2012, 03:33 PM.

  • #2
    If you get a dressmakers tape or a 1m steel rule, measure the high E from breakpoint on the saddle (Middle ridge) to the breakpoint (Inside) of the nut. It should be 25.5"...err...unless you have a 24.75" scale, in which case its that. The saddles are then adjusted in increments with a feeler gauge, placed flush with the last intonated saddle which will depend upon the gauge of your strings used. I don't know the exact presets and most guitars needs some adjustment afterwards anyway.

    http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/...r-setup-guide/

    Don't start with the saddles inline, try doing as in the article, if you neck is thin and your strings are heavy, possibly you might want to do each string, one at a time with the guitar in tune, as you would with a floyd. If access is difficult with full tension, as with a TOM bridge you might want to unwind the tension a bit, adjust and then retune.

    When I mock up guitar mutts I always measure from the nut to the bridge on the high E, just so I know intonation is possible. with the given hardware, without having to rout the end of the neck off or something (Which I've done before on a guitar routed for a OFR but which I fitted a Schaller FR to)

    Maybe someone will know the incremental, pre-manual intonation setup from the high E saddle, once its at 25.5"? Is it just based on string guage with D saddle parallel to the B saddle, on a set of 9's or 10's?
    Last edited by ginsambo; 02-16-2012, 02:57 PM.
    You can't really be jealous of something you can't fathom.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the link. In this case, I think my main issue is where to start. The bridge itself can be adjusted in terms of distance from the nut, then the saddles can be adjusted for each string. It's a 25" scale, so I'm guessing I'd measure from the nut to the saddle on both E's like you said to get 25", then adjust as needed for the other strings.

      I'll give it a shot. Still, do I need to flip the saddles on the lower strings to get the proper intonation range?

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      • #4
        Easy part first:

        Put the old bridge back on for a second, and take general measurements of the distance from the nut face to the saddle. Write ‘em down.
        Put your new bridge back on, adjust the saddle positioning so that they match up to the measurements you just wrote down.
        Now intonate that sucker and remember the 3Fs of intonation: “fret, flat, forward” (if the fretted note is flat in comparison to the open string, move the saddle forward)

        More in a sec.
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        • #5
          For the rest of it:

          You might be able to get replacement studs from Allparts or WD. I don’t believe that Stewmac carries that bridge at the moment.

          As far as the saddle location goes, the 25” really only refers to the forward most saddle; the high E string. And even when it’s intonated, it probably won’t be dead on at 25”.

          Regarding the bridge adjusting (the studs, not the saddles), you’re probably going to have to play with it a bit (thatswhatshesaid), but start the screws out at about ½ travel on the treble side and a bit further back for the bass side. Because the bridge is so adjustable, you should not have to flip the saddles: if you run out of real estate on the bass side, just move the bridge itself back via the adjustment screw.

          Sully
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          • #6
            Low E might be around 25 & 11/16" from what I measured, high E 25 & 1/2" that is your maximum/minimum range required I should think - you should be able to centre the bridge on those measurements to allow for adjustment on each saddle either way. That is with 9-42 strings and might be a bit off on the measurements.

            In retrospect...what he said. I think it is simpler.

            ...Yeah I didn't really understand the Fender article myself, I only looked into this today as I want to intonate a floyd guitar, which I've never done before as I can imagine it can take an age doing it by pitch alone. What I would usually do, after setting the high E saddle to scale, is just set the saddles by eye or roughly measured with the strings off, whilst comparing to an intonated guitar and then adjust them to pitch using my ears and the strings on. But on a floyd I think it might be too time consuming. Found the wonderful formula of using string gauge to measure saddle increments.....So I found some old guy who speaks like Mr Garrison from South Park on youtube doing a demo. He mentions certain feel gauge increments of saddle adjustment following the high E saddle set up, prior to manually intonating by pitch......OK...OK....OK


            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-eVYlXNIa4


            Think I will invent my own method of floyd intonation by jamming something underneath it to hold it in place.
            You can't really be jealous of something you can't fathom.

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            • #7
              Thanks guys. Got her strung up and intonated nicely. Now to let the new strings stretch and tomorrow I'll make any small adjustments as needed.

              BTW, wow. I must have been tired because that original post is riddled with typos. Yikes.

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