JT-6 problems and general consesus

[mrthrash]

I was wondering what's the general consensus with these bridges. Does anyone like them enough to keep them long term in their guitars and do they continually cause problems or is my just that mine is old and overused. My main guitar at the moment is a charvel model 2 that I bought a few years ago and I love the overall feel of the guitar especially the raised bridge compared to normal recessed floyd type bridges. But I keep having problems with it. I've heard of people swapping them out for floyds but I think I'd rather just look for a new guitar rather than going to that hassle.

Right now my main problem is that the bit where you insert the allen key to change the strings seems to be stripped on the G string and I cant turn it tight enough to get the string tuned up without coming off. This happened before with the low E and seems close to happening with the other strings. Is this just something that will always happen because the metal is too soft or is there some way to get around it? What's been other people's experience of these bridges and are they worth keeping?

[Carbuff]

Yes, that is a common problem with them. Sometimes people will cut a slot in the end of a stripped bolt so it can be tightened with a screwdriver or you can replace them with screws from a hardware store, that looks kinda funky, or someone somewhere makes replacements, I saw a thread on it here a while ago. Try a search.

[straycat]

Quick fix is cut a slot until you find a replacement.
I love the JT-6 its a great trem never had one fail to work perfectly.

[MetalMedal II]

If the JT6 was made with better metal, it'd be a more popular trem. I think it's a great design. Having the barrel adjustment so the fine tuners are no longer on top was an improvement over the OFR. Also, the basepate having a step built into it so the saddles could all be the same size, and hence interchangeable was good. The soft metal just doesn't last.

[Patt]

Sorry:

LOOOOOOOOOOOVE that bridge

Spent a lot of time fine tuning and finessing that particular piece of equipment.

Comfy and a workhorse, albeit with too much tweaking needed after they get old .

Patt

[straycat]

Lots of clean ones pop up on ebay at fair prices.

[BayRocker]

Never had a problem with mine and I've owned it since 1987.

[mrthrash]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Apart from the durability problem I actually quite like the JT-6. It's comfy and I agree the location of the fine tuners is definately an improvement over the OFR and something I particularly like about it. I considered looking for a new one but I think the same thing would end up happening again eventually so I'd be hesitant. And apart from the stripped bolts I think my one's probably fine.

@Carbuff: That solution of cutting the slot in the bolt is what I got done on the low E before. I think it would be a lot more difficult on the G string though because the bolt doesn't stick out as far so space is tighter and it would have to be really neat to work. I don't mind it looking a bit weird as long as it works. I think replacing them with screws from a hardware store might be my best option. I didn't think of that. Is it hard to find something that's compatible? Does anyone know of any threads or photos where that modification's been done on before? Or is there a photo of the kind of part I need to get?

@Patt: What kind of fine tuning did you do with yours? I'd love to keep it in my guitar if i can get around its problems. Are there any other problems that could crop up in time with these bridges as they age?

@BayRocker: That's good to know they can last that long. I suppose mine probably lasted without problems from 1987 until I bought it a few years ago. And its had pretty heavy use since and only started giving problems about a year ago. Is there any special attention you've given it to help it last so long without problems? I tried not to tighten it too much with the allen key when changing strings to avoid stripping but it seems to me that it was inevitable that it would happen at some stage.

[Hellbat]

Right now my main problem is that the bit where you insert the allen key to change the strings seems to be stripped on the G string and I cant turn it tight enough to get the string tuned up without coming off.

This is a common problem with them. To fix your problem you could try swapping the screw with one of the ones on the other wound strings. They don't need as much tension to stay put.

The other option is to replace the screws. Someone sourced some replacements somewhere. It was either Budman (fretsonthenet.com) or Henrik (audiozone.dk)

The other problem I had with my JT-6 is the threads stripping out on the screws, so it will tighten to a point and then just not tighten further. This was likely caused by my overtightening of the screws.I worked around this by using fine tip needlenose pliers to put a small loop at the bottom of the string, making it a little thicker at the loop point. This kept me on the threaded part of the screw. Of course my JT-6 is now replaced with an OFR.

[Axewielder]

The JT6 is a good trem for me, but it doesn't hurt to have a bag of spare parts. The stripped locking screw issue does happen, but it's not as common as you might think listening to what others say. I've got around ten JT6 guitars, and I've only ever had to replace one saddle on account of that.

[BayRocker]

Frets on the net sells replacement parts for the JT-6 here. He is a JCF member as well. $21 for all six locking screws and the new allen key required. Can't beat that.

[straycat]

Take the locking screw off and use a dremel tool with a cutting disc cut your slot and it will last for many years.

[Patt]

mrthrash:

Hey Brother;

Over the years I have broken a bunch of the snap in bars and went with the floyd screw on types. easy retrofit and actualy feels more solid.

make sure you don't over tighten the string locks at the headstock they tend to make groves in the plates that lock the strings. this can be solved by careful filing to remove the groves.

Disassemble (there are lots of threads outlining this I think) and clean the entire bridge (tooth brush is great for this) and keep it well oiled.

I have replaced the bridge knives on a few of these but that was in the late 90's don't know if the parts are available. And it was a complete BITCH to do without a fully stocked metal shop.

Make sure the small screws holding the nutlock are tight.

the metal of the bridge and its components are somewhat suspect ( I have worn whole saddles down on a model 88 in the far past) but if you treat it knowing this you can find it a servicable (and in my case preferred) bridge for many years.

if you need any particulars please ask!!!!

Cheers

Patt

[vklobucar]

Where do I begin?


Hate them with a passion!

Granted the design (on paper at least) was decent but the ubber crap cast metal that they used just killed any points in my book.

It's like trying to save an 1989 Hyundai instead of marching off to the Honda dealership and driving home a new Accord.

Why people spend time and money on those paper weights is beyond me.

I have scored countless Model series guitars and the minute I get the guitar home that crap ass trem is dumped on ebay ASAP! Then an OFR is installed. No issues whatsoever!

Can you folks say that with the JT-6?

Swap one out for an OFR or at least a Schaller and if you do not hear a drastic difference in tone, quit playing guitar and take up the flute!

Show me one single pro player that uses a JT-6.

I can (somewhat) understand the love for Khaler trem's over a Floyd but to love a JT-6?

Kramer had the rights to the OFR and Jackson was forced to "design" their own version.

They failed and they know it!

But hey! Democracy at it's best I suppose!

[Hellbat]

I would say it's more of a production fail than a design fail. Using the inserted knife edge let them get away with going too soft on the metal used for the rest.