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1987 Soloist dead notes and buzz

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  • 1987 Soloist dead notes and buzz

    Hi everyone. I play with my action fairly low and until recently this hasn't become a problem. But a few weeks ago, I started to get dead notes on the low E from frets 2-4. Also my High E was experiencing similar problems but it became especially bad when bending notes 12 and up. The frets are in good shape and raising the action doesn't seem to help ( I can't stand to play on high action anyway). Any suggestions? I know adjusting the truss rod should help, but it's a pain in the ass to take off the kahler style nut loosen all my strings adjust the rod, screw the nut back into place retune and set it back up to check. Any easier ways to go about adjusting and checking?
    Last edited by Raidogen; 07-29-2011, 12:23 PM.

  • #2
    Sounds like you might have a high fret near the 24th and maybe the neck is back-bowed a little. I don't know where you live but I usually have to loosen my truss rods a bit in the summer when the humidity goes up.

    To check the truss rod, fret at the 1st fret and then some fret higher up, like the first one on the body. You should be able to get a .009 string between the 8th or 9th fret and the high E, more or less (not much more or less) if you need a low-buck feeler gauge. Of course, you need three hands (or a capo) to do this.

    Also I don't know what the truss rod adjuster nut is like but if it's like my newer Soloists (I bet it isn't) I have a nice ball-end hex driver to avoid that whole "strings are getting in the way" thing but I bet you can find a thin-wall socket that would work on a nut driver or something like that, if yours has a nut instead of a hex head adjuster.

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    • #3
      low E buzz on lower frets, High E buzz on high frets, sounds like the neck might be starting to twist, or possible fretboard compression or swelling to me. could also be a VERY poor setup. its much easier when you have problems accross all the strings in the same fret range. reverse headstock? i had a jackson that didnt like 10-52's it would cause the neck to bow more on the bass side.

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      • #4
        I just want to say thanks for the responses you guys have given me ! However, although i'm sure adjusting the truss rod would help I don't know whether or not it needs relief or stress and how much of either it needs. I'll show you guys a picture of what the access point looks like.....



        The truss rod tool doesn't fit unless you take the stringlock off and loosen the string a great deal.
        Last edited by Raidogen; 07-29-2011, 12:22 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Raidogen View Post
          The truss rod tool doesn't fit unless you take the stringlock off and loosen the string a great deal.
          That cutout in the top of the stringlock is supposed to accommodate the wrench so it would work without removing the string lock. I bet that 3-ply shim that the stringlock is sitting on is preventing this. Specifically, the part of the shim directly in from of the truss rod nut. I bet if you trim that away, the truss rod wrench would fit...at least the ones I have do. Usually, I only need to loosen the 3rd and 4th strings so I can turn the wrench.

          BTW, can't tell from the pics if it needs more relief or not, but I'd follow what JazzNoise said. Oh yeah, nice guitar! This era of Jackson is my fave.
          "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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          • #6
            I can't make it fit just by trimming the shim. I know this because it barely fits just without the shim and the stringlock alone. But I think it needs relief.

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            • #7
              Then it's possible that the wrench socket is a too short. To get relief, turn the truss rod wrench counter-clockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
              "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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              • #8
                That's a sweet guitar!

                I don't know what size that nut is, but you can probably find a t-handle wrench that will fit it and then you would only need to loosen the center locking clamp.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MakeAJazzNoiseHere View Post
                  That's a sweet guitar!
                  Yes, I'd hate to see it F'ed up. Please take it to a pro. It deserves it. After all, how old is it? 24?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DonP View Post
                    Yes, I'd hate to see it F'ed up. Please take it to a pro. It deserves it. After all, how old is it? 24?
                    thats the best advice, yet.

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                    • #11
                      I appreciate your concern, however I don't have a lot of cash since i'm 17 and without a job. I do consider myself competent at adjusting and setting up my own guitar though, I just find it annoying that I have to disassemble the entire locking system in order to get to the darn thing. The best tech in town always has a line out the door whenever I come in for help. I did some adjustments and I think that I just needed to give it some relief (While I was at it I changed the strings, cleaned the floyd and polished every possible part on the guitar) The dead notes are practically gone but there is one on the 18th that was there since the day I bought it (while bending. The note itself rings out fine) By the way, thanks for the guitar compliments guys.

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                      • #12
                        you may consider yourself competent but based on your questions about adjusting the truss rod and how to get to it, may lead some to think otherwise. people who think they know what they are doing, do far more harm than people who know they dont know shit. BTW when loosening a truss rod to get more relief it may take a day or 2 for the neck to settle so do not over adjust, DO NOT turn more than a 1/4 turn at a time without letting the neck settle. But you probably already knew that.

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                        • #13
                          Aside from extenuating circumstances (i.e. normal adjustments not having the desired effect) paying someone to adjust a truss rod is pissing money down the drain.

                          But it does sound like you have some fret wear or a high fret and should take it to a good repairman for a level, dress and setup.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by j2379 View Post
                            you may consider yourself competent but based on your questions about adjusting the truss rod and how to get to it, may lead some to think otherwise. people who think they know what they are doing, do far more harm than people who know they dont know shit. BTW when loosening a truss rod to get more relief it may take a day or 2 for the neck to settle so do not over adjust, DO NOT turn more than a 1/4 turn at a time without letting the neck settle. But you probably already knew that.
                            Sorry, my questions may have been misinterpreted. Originally what I meant to ask was is there was any other way to adjust the truss rod than completely disassembling my whole freakin' setup. I've looked around the forum and have found tutorials on adjusting the rod itself but none on specifically adjusting one on a kahler style behind the nut lock. I also just wanted to confirm that this WAS in fact an issue with the rod and not with my frets.

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                            • #15
                              Depending on how low you have the action I'd guess it's a little of both.

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