What's the most efficient way to strip a body?

[PowerTube]

And by efficient, I mean fast. I want to try a paint job and I don't want 9/10 of my time spent stripping the old paint.

Or.......is it a big deal to just paint over the original paint? It's a solid color.

[levantin]

Try a chemical stripper. I've done a kelly by hand and it took me two days. Don't paint over the clear coat but if you are doing a similar color you can avoid going down to the bare wood.

[thebigz]

I've heard there is something called "aircraft stripper" or something similar that people here have had success with. I'll be watching this thread too since I have a project of my own coming up.

[DonP]

1) Don't. It's a pain in the ass.
2) Sanding. Just rough up the existing finish with 320,

All chemical strippers I've used sucked. I'm not if I used every stripper out there (better not let the wife find out)

[Axewielder]

I vaguely recall a thread somewhere where somebody stripped a pro mod with a heat gun. The results were damn impressive.

[Trussrod]

A heat gun won't put moisture in the wood like a chemical stripper. I would avoid aircraft stripper since it's strong enough to turn wood brown as will a heat gun on a high setting. If you know what type of paint is on the guitar you can use the appropriate primer or sealer to cover it then apply base coat and clear.



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[warlok]

I sanded my Model 6 all the way down in about 3 hours. If I do another project that's how I'll do it again.

[thebigz]

What was the progression of grits that you used?

[Newc]

Hammer and chisel works for me, followed by a Dremel with a 50 grit sanding barrel.

[jackson1]

Hammer and chisel works for me, followed by a Dremel with a 50 grit sanding barrel.

What's your eBay handle? I just realized I need it

[levantin]

What was the progression of grits that you used?

If you're asking me, I have no idea

Maybe more knowledgable guys can chime in? (looking at you Henrik)

[jackson1]

I scrape it using glass or a "Ziehklinge", 45 degree angle, pulling towards me, using many pieces of cut glass and sometimes Stanley blades. A piece of normal thick cut glass holds 8 sides/edges. They cut tremendously well when sharp and is easily controllable. Especially the back of the neck is easily done by this method. When I hit the bare wood (or just prior to that), I sand it, starting with 120 grit followed by 180/240, then 320/400 depending on what the new finish should be. Always sanding parallel to the grains in the wood. If you don't, there will be scratches in the wood from the 120 grit, which is a pain to sand away. I don't use Random-orbital sanders. I use a large/long block. Using a small block, you can make pits or small valleys in the surface, which you don't want. Between sandings, I wipe the wood with a damp cloth - it makes the grains "rise". I then wait 10 minutes and sand again.

Stanley + Ziehklinge:

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Rough it up with whatever, 80 grit, anything to take the shine off.

Then wipe acetone on it, let it sit in puddles. It will soften it.

Then sand the hell out of it.

Or, just start with sandpaper, it really doesn't take that long, and even when I've had good luck with stripper it never works on the edges.

I have a nice ash body I'm working on, the only issue is with the trem recess, I'm not sure how I'm going to get that cleaned up.

[Axewielder]

Here's the heat gun thread that I recalled (actually a torch ). Kind of interesting. Imitate at your own risk!

http://www.jemsite.com/forums/f19/bo...ied-85053.html

[thebigz]

Wow, that looks cool. I may give that a shot. Haha.