Tru Oil to restore maple fingerboard?

[Axewielder]

Yeah I searched...seems like this question has been asked before, but the resulting answers were sort of all over the place.

This is a 1988 Jackson Strat neck with maple fingerboard. As you can see, it is a bit dirty and dry. What is left of the oil finish on the neck feels just like the ones on my ebony and rosewood necks, so I'm guessing Tru Oil.

The questions:

1) Did Jackson in fact use Tru Oil on maple board necks?
2) Did Jackson finish the neck before seating the frets, or after? I understand that finishing a neck beforehand is the preferred technique employed by luthiers, however companies like Fender will finish the neck after the frets are seated in order to shave cost.
3 - most important question) Is it a good idea to have at this board with 0000 steel wool and Tru Oil? I've done the backs of necks a dozen times, but the board has me skittish. I'm worried about getting a gummy Fender fret feel and/or crud and steel wool bits at the base of the frets and/or other drama I didn't anticipate.

I can always chicken out and do a basic lemon oil cleaning with a rag, but I'd like to go "all the way" if there isn't substantial risk or uncertainty involved.

[Axewielder]

Also, please don't pile on with a thousand alternative solvents. That seems to be how the other threads got derailed.

[plon]

I would avoid doing the board with steel wool and oil, you will force the dark fine shavings from the wool and the frets into the wood. I use a small amount of acetone on a rag to clean the board and remove any foreign oils, then wipe it with a light coat of tru oil. Works great every time. If you have to steel wool the frets or polish, I always mask off the board. It takes a little more time, but trust me, you'll be glad you did.

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

I trust what Plon says however beware... Acetone WILL soften/pit polyurethane, and probably Tru Oil, too.

So go REALLY easy with it if you use it.

1. I don't know
2. Not sure, probably before (I never see finish built up at the base of the frets, which is what you see on Fenders)
3. I'm not sure why you would do this unless you've worn through the finish. Tru Oil isn't really an oil finish and doesn't need to be reapplied like real oil finishes

I would probably use naphtha on a rag to clean it up and be done with it.

[Axewielder]

I would avoid doing the board with steel wool and oil, you will force the dark fine shavings from the wool and the frets into the wood. I use a small amount of acetone on a rag to clean the board and remove any foreign oils, then wipe it with a light coat of tru oil. Works great every time. If you have to steel wool the frets or polish, I always mask off the board. It takes a little more time, but trust me, you'll be glad you did.

Hmm, I usually do the steel wool between coats of Tru Oil to remove imperfections and smooth everything out. I'm sort of scratching my head here if I can't do that on the board.

[Trussrod]

Try wrapping a small piece of steel wool around a magnet before sanding the cured Tru-oil. It should keep bits of steel off of the fret board.

[Grandturk]

I use steel wool all the time on rosewood boards to polish the up. No problem with bits of steel sticking under the frets.

Whats the story with this neck? It has a hard finish on it or an oil finish

[plon]

Hmm, I usually do the steel wool between coats of Tru Oil to remove imperfections and smooth everything out. I'm sort of scratching my head here if I can't do that on the board.

Have you tried it? Go for it and you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm just saying that "I" won't do it that way. When you steel wool frets, small amounts of the fret are removed and is a dark fine dust and small enough to embed in and discolor the maple. Of course I'm referring to raw unfinished necks. Doing the back of the neck that way is fine since there is no metal being removed other than the steel wool, which will not be embedded easily. Personally, I prefer using a scotchbrite pad on the back of the neck when re-oiling.

[straycat]

3000 scotch bright pad does a great job as effective as 0000 steel wool with out the residue.Shines the frets up real nice too.

[sully]

The questions:

1) Did Jackson in fact use Tru Oil on maple board necks?
2) Did Jackson finish the neck before seating the frets, or after? I understand that finishing a neck beforehand is the preferred technique employed by luthiers, however companies like Fender will finish the neck after the frets are seated in order to shave cost.
3 - most important question) Is it a good idea to have at this board with 0000 steel wool and Tru Oil? I've done the backs of necks a dozen times, but the board has me skittish. I'm worried about getting a gummy Fender fret feel and/or crud and steel wool bits at the base of the frets and/or other drama I didn't anticipate.

1. Yes
2. Most likely after (also haven't heard of people finishing the neck before it's finished, but no biggie)
3. What plon said. I use a rag and leave it at that.

Sully