Action Change

[chef_jackson]

This may be a strange question or it may just be me...but is it possible for action to change after changing strings ? I did my first string chage on my new RR1T I went from the factory string set 9's to GHS boomers 9's and it feels as though the action is a tad higher than before. I checked the neck straight as an arrow. I have been playing for a long time and never experienced anything like this. Again it could be me. Is Jackson using D'addario from the factory ?

[Musician78]

It is totally possible. Different strings can have tension variations... that would affect the action.

[chef_jackson]

Any suggestions on strings I am partial to boomers...or should I just run her in for a quick set up. She's holding tune rock steady now I was having minor tuning issues with the factory strings.

[chef_jackson]

I see what I did I went from 9-42 which is what they put on at the factory to 9-46. Looks like it's going to need a set up. Any ideas about the nut ? should be ok right ?

[Spivonious]

As long as the strings move freely through the nut you should fine.

If the action is too high for you, just lower the bridge. No need to take it into a shop. You'll probably need to adjust the intonation as well, since that can vary even between brands of the same string gauge.

[Matt_B]

The heavier E, A and D strings are exerting slightly more tension on the neck than the ones that came on the guitar from the factory so it's likely that you will need to tighten up the truss rod a wee bit (1/8th of a turn, maybe a quarter) to get it back to where it was. You should not need to lower bridge at all.

[Spivonious]

The heavier E, A and D strings are exerting slightly more tension on the neck than the ones that came on the guitar from the factory so it's likely that you will need to tighten up the truss rod a wee bit (1/8th of a turn, maybe a quarter) to get it back to where it was. You should not need to lower bridge at all.

The truss rod is not for action adjustments. He stated his neck is straight, so he shouldn't need to touch the truss rod.

[Chad]

The truss rod is not specifically for action adjustments, but it certainly can affect the action. I agree with Matt....a VERY small truss rod tweak should get you to where you want to be. You may want to adjust the action for the extra thickness of the strings, but you're talking like .002" for the low E.

[Matt_B]

The truss rod is not for action adjustments.

IMHO, it is because it affects the action (playability) so we can just agree to disagree.

He stated his neck is straight, so he shouldn't need to touch the truss rod.

Oops, missed that.

[Chad]

As far as stating the neck is "straight as an arrow".........that means .000" relief to me. I'm guessing even if his relief was actually .000" with his prior strings that it now has a LITTLE bit of relief with the thicker strings. I know some adjust the truss rod by feel and I do to some degree, but I also really like to use a quality straightedge and feeler gauges to find out exactly where I am.

[Matt_B]

You may want to adjust the action for the extra thickness of the strings, but you're talking like .002" for the low E.

Actually, the bottom of the strings are resting in the exactly same position in the nut and in their saddles. They're just a wee bit (.002) further up.

[Matt_B]

...I also really like to use a quality straightedge and feeler gauges to find out exactly where I am.

That reminds me. I need to get some feeler gauges.

[Chad]

That reminds me. I need to get some feeler gauges.

Yeah, they are very nice for this purpose....especially if you are anal retentive. I like to know where I'm at mainly for academic purposes. 90% of the time I like somewhere between .010" and .012" measured at the largest gap between the 6th to 9th frets, and I measure with a straightedge between the D & A strings.

[Matt_B]

Yeah, they are very nice for this purpose....especially if you are anal retentive. I like to know where I'm at mainly for academic purposes. 90% of the time I like somewhere between .010" and .012" measured at the largest gap between the 6th to 9th frets, and I measure with a straightedge between the D & A strings.

I've got a good straight edge and this handy little String Action Gauge from Stew Mac. I just would like to be able to accurately measure neck relief so I can precisely know what I like and keep track of it on all my guitars.

[Balou]

I noticed my new Sam Dimas 1S 2H has a definite bow in the neck towards the nut. Action is fine and plenty of room to lower,but is it good to have a visible relief I believe you called it? I ask cause its not visible on my other guitars.
And I'd do just about anything on my guitars except mes with the truss rod myself.