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OFR block on a JT580LP?

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  • OFR block on a JT580LP?

    I was going to make a 42mm block for the JT580LP I got from Gank (thanks man..) but company is getting ridiculous on policies so not going to take the chance doing my own stuff anymore. So I'll buy one, they're cheap enough on ebay. Just to make sure before I buy one, the ones made for OFR's should bolt/screw to a JT580LP, right? If it makes a difference, it's the one with the back of the plate squared off, not angled (only in '94 if I read old posts correctly..??)..
    Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

  • #2
    Originally posted by warlok View Post
    Just to make sure before I buy one, the ones made for OFR's should bolt/screw to a JT580LP, right?
    Yes, the screw spacing on both is the same--17 mm IIRC. I spec'ed this out myself when I was considering a swap. I saw a JT580LP on ebay with an OFR brass block about six months ago too.

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    • #3
      I swamped one earlier this year and it lined right up.

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      • #4
        Cool. Thanks..
        Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by warlok View Post
          I was going to make a 42mm block for the JT580LP
          Except wouldn't a 42mm block be too big, i.e., it would stick out of the back of the guitar? The block on the JT580LP in my DK2M seems to be 32mm.

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          • #6
            It's going in place of a non-recessed JT6 on a Charvel Model 6. Needs a 42mm.
            Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by warlok View Post
              It's going in place of a non-recessed JT6 on a Charvel Model 6. Needs a 42mm.
              OIC. Makes sense. Keep us posted on the swap. Now that I read this thread I'm considering skipping over to Floyd Upgrades

              By the by, is there a site that has dis-assembly/re-assembly instructions for the JT580LP? I'd hate to get mine apart and then realize that I don't know how to put it back together.

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              • #8
                Only thing you need to watch for is the order of the saddles. The heights are different. E & E are lowest, A & B are middle height, D & G are the highest. Somewhat follows the radius of the fretboard (kinda). And the saddles should go back in near the same spot as they were to get you close on intonation. You'll have to re-set it up afterwards. Outside of that, take a pic or 2 before you take it apart to reference later and there's exploded views all over the net. The closest real floyd to the JT580LP is the Floyd Rose Pro. Not much to them that could go back together wrong.
                Last edited by warlok; 11-24-2009, 06:54 PM.
                Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

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