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Locking down a trem on an SL1?

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  • Locking down a trem on an SL1?

    If someday I get an SL1 I may want to lock down the trem. Does an SL1 come with a little trem stopper contraption or would I have to buy one from somewhere else? If so, where could I pick one up?

  • #2
    You'd have to buy a trem block.

    Here's where I get most of my gear: http://store.hipshotproducts.com/car...t_detail&p=115
    Ratt & Roll

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    • #3
      Depending on your needs you can also try the tremolo stopper:

      http://floydupgrades.com/index.php?m...ptdin7b5h2fth1

      I believe there is a nice looking, non-permanent solution from Schaeller, but it is quite pricey.

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      • #4
        You should read reviews of the different trem devices. Some are more popular (and easier to use) than others. The Tremol-No seems like a well thought out trem stopper.

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        • #5
          A block of wood is all you need.
          Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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          • #6
            Budman makes a really solid-looking adjustable trem stop for a great price:

            http://www.fretsonthenet.com/hardwar..._Tremolo_Stops

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            • #7
              A block of wood for sure. A Tremol-No if you want to go from floating to locked and back.
              Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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              • #8
                I would probably have to cut a piece of wood using a skilsaw and make sure it's JUST the right size eh? On top of that I'd probably have to use some really good glue to get it to stick the way it should. Need that trem floating perfectly.

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                • #9


                  NO! This is not really a high-precision job. Sure, some may argue that you need to use "quality tone wood" for the block and the Floyd's spring block must make maximum contact with the wood's surface for "maximum tone transfer and sustain" and such, but I think this is just another cork-sniffer thing, whatever you use, as long as the Floyd is resting on something solid and the springs are fairly tight it's going to have better sustain than a floating Floyd and it's not going to drop pitch when you do double-stop bends.

                  I use old pieces of scrap wood I have laying around. I cut it with a plastic mitre box that's loose and sloppy and therefore doesn't do exact 90-degree angles. A piece of 1/2" quarter round is pretty ideal in most trem cavities. Cut a 1" long chunk off and you're ready to go.

                  I mock it up with the block a little on the large size and glue it in with some $.99 gel super glue (sticks to wood well enough) and then cut it down with a bastard file until it's the right size.

                  Seriously this is an easy DIY job. I don't claim it's pretty but functionally it works just great.

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                  • #10
                    I've used the Tremol-No and like it quite a bit. Nice to be able to go from locked to floating to dive only- You can tune down without refloating the trem.

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                    • #11
                      Vass, did you have any problems with the thumbscrews working their way out when the bridge wasn't locked? I have a Tremel-no on my KV2, and it works very well, but there's been a few times they've fallen out. I don't have a backplate on mine. Maybe cutting a hole in the backplate is the real solution?

                      To the OP, the Tremel-no is great to keep the functionality of the bridge, and be able to block or lock it in a few seconds. They aren't cheap, but you can find new ones on eBay for a few bucks less than the stores.

                      Pat

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mccullpl View Post
                        Vass, did you have any problems with the thumbscrews working their way out when the bridge wasn't locked? I have a Tremel-no on my KV2, and it works very well, but there's been a few times they've fallen out. I don't have a backplate on mine. Maybe cutting a hole in the backplate is the real solution?

                        To the OP, the Tremel-no is great to keep the functionality of the bridge, and be able to block or lock it in a few seconds. They aren't cheap, but you can find new ones on eBay for a few bucks less than the stores.

                        Pat

                        Pat,

                        Not yet- When I go home I'm going to screw around with them (no pun intended) and see if I can get them to try to fall out. I *thought* the end thread on them held em on, but maybe I just haven't noticed that they can come loose.

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                        • #13
                          Vass, mine have fallen out when I was playing standing up, and I guess the screws rubbed on my clothing and backed themselves out. I don't think it's a vibration issue.

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                          • #14
                            I would not recommend the Tremel-No either. I had one in my AMDeluxe Strat, and though it worked for drop tuning, I had three major issues. I was never able to get it adjusted to the point where I did not hear any noise when moving the trem... that meant friction and affected tuning stability. Second, the thum screws stuck out above the body of the guitar, so I could not use the cavity cover. This worried me because inevitably, I would've loosened the screws during a gig. Lasly, the device has too many small parts/was over engineered IMO so in the event that something came apart on a dark stage (which you know it would), you would be screwed. I eventually the thing off the guitar.

                            There are alot of glowing reviews of the Tremel-No, so it must work for somebody. Maybe I'm unlucky?

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                            • #15
                              If your having problems with the thumbscrews coming out, here what I do: Place a drop or so of mineral/baby oil or WD-40 on the slider shaft. Smear it on and lightly wipe it off. (This is required to reduce the likelyhood of the inner shaft sticking to the outer sleeve described in the next step.)
                              Then, place a small drop of Blue Loctite or Permatex blue ThreadLocker on the threads of the thumb screw. Install the thumb screws and let dry for an hour or so. Later, you can still unscrew and screw the thumb screws time after time. They will have a tighter thread pattern and not back out. Note: If the Tremol-No has been used a while. Clean the threads of the thumb screws with contact or brake cleaner and let dry before applying the Loctite to the threads.
                              I have 6 of them on various guitars. They all clear the back of the body as I have used the appropriate size trem block. I had a couple where the thumb screws would back out and the loctite did the trick.
                              Last edited by Bengal65; 09-18-2009, 04:06 PM.
                              Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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