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HELP! I need to know what clear coat to use

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  • HELP! I need to know what clear coat to use


    I just painted a white strat (with white latex spray paint). it came out very well. but I have no idea what kind of clear coat to put on it. do I use laquer, epoxy, or what? please help! thanks!
    http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=P9070134.jpg
    Last edited by axe_calibur; 09-08-2009, 05:35 PM.

  • #2
    You sprayed on latex? :think:
    Any clear coat you try and put on it will either melt, or not bond with the latex paint.

    Edit: There are epoxy based clear coats out there that might work, but I doubt it would be very durable.
    Latex is meant for houses, not guitars.
    Last edited by rjohnstone; 09-08-2009, 05:34 PM.
    -Rick

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    • #3
      crap! lol. i thought there would be a latex clear or something similar. it's the first one i ever painted. what do you suggest for paint and clear if i start it over and strip it?

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      • #4
        You can rattle can it (spray paint) with good results, but the best results come from using automotive grade paints with a polyurethane based clear coat.
        Same stuff the manufacturers use.

        If money is an issue, you can go the rattle can route and have a decent looking finish.
        Body prep is key and don't lay it on too heavy. Use a lot of thin coats and let it dry thoroughly between each coat.
        Once it's done, find an auto body shop and see when the next time they will be shooting clear on something. If you time it right, you may be able to talk them into shooting clear on the body with little or no charge.
        -Rick

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        • #5
          You can get amazing results with this stuff, if you are okay with having a vintage style nitro finish (very appropriate for a strat):

          http://www.reranch.com/products.htm

          Note that I've only worked with their clears and not their colors. A lot of labor goes into sanding each layer, and the layers melt together into one. It's fairly forgiving and easy. All you need is low humidity weather, rubber gloves, sandpaper, and courage.

          EDIT: I'm recommending sanding it down and starting over with this stuff, not just clearing over your mess there.
          Last edited by Axewielder; 09-09-2009, 12:10 AM.
          _________________________________________________
          "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
          - Ken M

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          • #6
            Originally posted by axe_calibur View Post

            I just painted a white strat (with white latex spray paint). it came out very well. but I have no idea what kind of clear coat to put on it. do I use laquer, epoxy, or what? please help! thanks!
            http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=P9070134.jpg

            BTW I'm lauhing at me not you.

            I did the same thign when I was about 16. I painted a strat copy out of a rattle can and it had some odd "rubbery" properties. The finish came out "rough" and a month later I started to sand it down and dicoverd I could actually "peel" it like a layer of dead skin. Saved me a lot of time. I had forgotten all about that incident itil this thread.

            Ah, good times, good times.
            Why the hell doesn't Eddie pick up a goddamned guitar and play something?


            Current Junk:
            98 ESP S'burst Tiger,(2) 85 Jackson Soloists (1 pink, 1 red and a white 85 Rhoads),08 Wayne,98 Blackmore, 91 375 Deluxe, 91 MM EVH Purple, 75 Ibanez Korina Destroyer,74 Strat, 78 JMP, 87 JCM800, (2) 80 Hamer Sunbursts, Peavey Vandenberg Custom Puzzle, 335, LPR8, 80 Dimarzio Explorer, 80 Dimarzio Strat, 84 Charvel, Nightswan, LPC Lite, old Baretta, etc. etc. +stuff. [sigpic=true][/sigpic]

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            • #7
              A company by the name of SEM makes a really nice 2k catalized urethane clear coat. It comes in a spray can. Once you activate, you need to use it. It will take 4 to 5 good coats to get the film thickness you need.
              Custom Guitars, Refinish and restorations.
              http://www.learnguitars.com

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 85 San Dimas View Post
                I did the same thign when I was about 16. I painted a strat copy out of a rattle can and it had some odd "rubbery" properties. The finish came out "rough" and a month later I started to sand it down and dicoverd I could actually "peel" it like a layer of dead skin.
                Me too I put the damn paint on so thick you could leave deep fingerprints in it weeks later! I tried baking it in the oven (another unsuccesful story!) before giving up and getting it painted by a car sprayer....
                Popular is not the same as good
                Rare is not the same as valuable
                Worth is what someone will pay, not what you want to get

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                • #9
                  I'd use Krylon for rattle cans.

                  edit: But I'd send it to Mike Learn first.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DonP View Post
                    But I'd send it to Mike Learn first.
                    How'd we go from a do-it-yourself rattle can finish to sending it to the premier airbrush guy on the planet?!?

                    Mike does rule, though.
                    _________________________________________________
                    "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                    - Ken M

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                    • #11
                      Hey guys. HEHE. Thanks, I was trying to offer up some do it yourself help. lol
                      Custom Guitars, Refinish and restorations.
                      http://www.learnguitars.com

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                      • #12
                        Don't feel bad Dude. I was painting a Warmoth Jackson style body back in about 89 and hung the body hanger on the top of an open garage door. A buddy dropped by to BS for about ten minutes and after he took off, I closed the door and forgot about the body.
                        My hair is on fire!!!!!My hair is on fire!!!!!!
                        Marshall 2205, 6100, 6100LM, JMP-1, EL84 20/20, VHT 2/50/2, Marshall 1960A & B cabs, '79 Strat, '84 Pacer, '98 Wolfgang, '08 Charvel San Dimas x 3.

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                        • #13
                          clear coat

                          thanks for the help guys. after closer inspection of the can (and my DEE DEE DEE moment was over) I saw it is indeed oil based butylaceate. xylol or mineral spirits is used for clean up. i think the Nitrocellulose Clear Coat Aerosolis is the way to go for it. thanks for all the tips guys.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by axe_calibur View Post
                            thanks for the help guys. after closer inspection of the can (and my DEE DEE DEE moment was over) I saw it is indeed oil based butylaceate. xylol or mineral spirits is used for clean up. i think the Nitrocellulose Clear Coat Aerosolis is the way to go for it. thanks for all the tips guys.

                            I would disagree. Nitro is pretty finicky. Most of the people I have seen use it, spray it way too dry because of its fast drying nature. Especially in cans. If you insist on Nitro, you have to use Nitro base colors as well, which the choice of colors is somewhat limited. If you go the uro route, you will have a much wider choice of colors. Uro drys slower than nitro and you will get much better flow out.
                            I use nitro for my acoustic work and restorations, but avoid it when I can. Especially in an aerosol.
                            Custom Guitars, Refinish and restorations.
                            http://www.learnguitars.com

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                            • #15
                              uro

                              I will try that. I think someone recommended the nitro if it was painted with latex? do you know where i can order the uro? i'll check out your site. thanks again.

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